Essential products for hair coloring?
To color your hair, two complementary ingredients are essential:
- 1 tube of hair color
- 1 tube of oxidant and/or a tube of developer
For materials, make sure you have a pair of gloves, a coloring bowl (to mix the products) and a brush to apply the color.
When to use oxidant?
Oxidant is a color-fixing product that penetrates the hair fiber to embed color pigments and make the color last longer.
The main oxidant volumes used are "10vol" and "20vol" to lighten by one to two shades. Generally, oxidant is used for permanent hair colors to cover gray hair.
From "30vol" upwards, bleaching operations can be performed. This type of oxidant is mainly used to achieve quite light or very light blonde shades.
Developer, on the other hand, is mainly used for "semi-permanent" or "tone-on-tone" colors, meaning temporary colors that last for about 3 to 4 weeks. As its name suggests, it helps to reveal the natural color of the hair by providing highlights and shine.
The oxidant content is lower than in permanent hair color and it does not contain ammonia.
What dosage should be applied?
Depending on the oxidant/developer and the amount of color, it is necessary to follow the dosage indicated on the hair color tube. You can also get information from our advisors, feel free to ask!
For example, there are several dosages: 1 dose of color + :
- 1.5 doses of oxidant
- 1 dose of oxidant
- 2 doses of oxidant.
The latter is generally indicated as: 1:1. The first number corresponds to the dose of color while the second number refers to the dose of oxidant/developer to be used.
In your bowl, make sure to mix the oxidant/developer and the hair color thoroughly to obtain the most homogeneous mixture possible.
What is the recommended processing time?
For hair color application, we first recommend using a fine-tooth comb and dividing the hair into 4 equal sections. Use clips and hairpins to hold them in place.
Then, take one of these sections and divide it into two or three sub-sections. Apply the color starting from the ends of the hair and then working your way up to the roots.
Leave on for 30-35 minutes for permanent hair color (with oxidant) and approximately 25 minutes for "tone-on-tone" hair color (with developer). You can also refer to the processing time indicated on the hair color tube.
How to rinse and wash your hair after coloring?
First, rinse your hair for 2 to 3 minutes to ensure the color bleeds out completely.
When the water runs clear, use a post-coloration shampoo that will help set the color.
If your hair is dry and/or sensitized, we recommend applying a nourishing conditioner.
How to remove hair dye stains?
To remove hair dye stains from the skin, forget alcohol or makeup remover and opt instead for a specific stain remover. Using a cotton pad, remove color stains from the hairline or ears.
Color essentials to prolong color vibrancy
Each hair type has its post-coloration essentials to prolong the life of your hair color.
For fine and/or quickly greasy hair:
Use a gentle, silicone-free shampoo to bring softness and shine to your hair.
Shampoos for oily hair are often too aggressive and contain a lot of silicone.
Alternate once a week with a color shampoo to prolong color intensity.
For dry hair
Once a week, choose a nourishing shampoo, low in silicone, and also alternate with a color-treated hair shampoo enriched with hydrating agents.
As a treatment, we recommend using an oil mask and always using a thermo-protective treatment in the form of oil or cream to protect your hair from thermal shock. However, be careful with summer, which is not kind to hair, which is why we advise you to read: 5 products to save your hair color this summer
FAQ: All about color developers
What is the role of a color developer in the coloring process?
The developer plays an essential role in the hair coloring process. It is a hydrogen peroxide-based solution that activates the color pigments. Its action helps to open the hair cuticles to facilitate the penetration of coloring pigments. Without a developer, the color would not be able to set permanently in the hair fiber and would not provide the desired results. The strength of the developer also determines the intensity of the lightening achieved, making it a crucial element in achieving the desired shade.
How to choose the right developer volume for my hair color?
The choice of developer volumes depends mainly on your coloring goals and hair type:
- 10 volumes (3%): Ideal for darkening hair or coloring tone-on-tone. Recommended for fine or fragile hair.
- 20 volumes (6%): Perfect for covering early gray hair or slightly changing the shade (1-2 tones). Suitable for most hair structures.
- 30 volumes (9%): For moderate lightening (2-3 tones) or complete gray hair coverage. Use with caution on sensitized hair.
- 40 volumes (12%): Reserved for significant lightening (3-4 tones). Avoid on the scalp and fragile hair.
For optimal results, always follow the recommended quantity in the manufacturer's instructions and adapt your choice to the condition of your hair fibers.
What mistakes should be avoided when using a color developer?
To ensure professional results and preserve the health of your hair, avoid these common mistakes:
- Incorrect dosage: Never alter the amount of developer indicated in the instructions. Excess can damage hair, while insufficient amounts compromise results.
- Inappropriate volumes: Using a developer that is too strong can burn the scalp and excessively weaken the hair fiber.
- Failure to observe processing time: Strictly follow the instructions regarding application time to avoid disappointing results or damage.
- Incorrect mixing: A poorly prepared emulsion can compromise the uniformity of the color and the final results.
- Reusing the mixture: Once prepared, the colorant+developer mixture must be used immediately as it rapidly loses its effectiveness.
What are the effects of different developer volumes on the final color?
The different developer volumes directly influence your coloring results:
- 10 volumes (3%): Deposits color without significant lightening. Ideal for tone-on-tone coloring or darkening. Offers soft and natural results with minimal hair damage.
- 20 volumes (6%): Produces slight lightening (1-2 tones) while allowing good pigment fixation. This is the standard choice for most permanent colorations and offers a good balance between effectiveness and hair respect.
- 30 volumes (9%): Generates moderate lightening (2-3 tones) with deep pigment penetration. Results are more intense and long-lasting, but the impact on hair structure is more significant.
- 40 volumes (12%): Causes powerful lightening (3-4 tones), allowing for radical transformations. Reserved for professionals or experienced users due to its high potential for hair damage.
