Want to try an enzymatic peel for smooth, glowing skin? There are many types of enzymatic peels. And while they generally have the same goal: to exfoliate the skin, each has unique properties that can be beneficial for specific skin types and concerns. In this guide, we'll explore the most common formulas and help you choose the one that's best for your skin.
What is an enzymatic peel?
Before choosing the best enzymatic peel for your skin, it's important to understand how it works. This type of topical exfoliant is made up of enzymes called proteases, also known as proteolytic enzymes. These enzymes dissolve dead skin cells that accumulate on the skin's surface and can cause dullness, rough texture, and clogged pores, revealing younger-looking skin.
This gentle exfoliation offers many benefits: it improves skin texture and softness, brightens and evens skin tone, fights blemishes, and allows your other skincare products to penetrate better. Enzymatic peels promote cell renewal for a healthier complexion. Depending on the type of enzyme, the concentration of the formula, and the frequency and regularity of their application, they can even help smooth fine lines and reduce dark spots and hyperpigmentation over time. What's more, they are generally gentler than other types of exfoliants like chemical peels and abrasive scrubs, making them suitable for most skin types, even sensitive ones, depending on the formula's concentration.
The different types of enzymatic peels
Pineapple peels (bromelain)
Pineapple is rich in bromelain, one of the most popular enzymes used in enzymatic peels, thanks to its gentle and soothing nature. While all enzymes used in peels offer gentle exfoliation, bromelain's particularly powerful anti-inflammatory properties can soothe skin and reduce redness. Often considered gentler on the skin than other enzymes, it is ideal for sensitive skin.
Pumpkin peels
Pumpkin contains protease enzymes, making it a popular enzymatic peel thanks to its gentle exfoliating properties. In addition to its exfoliating benefits, it soothes the skin thanks to its high content of antioxidants and vitamins, which help protect it. Its particularly high vitamin A content allows it to slightly replace retinoic acid, stimulating collagen production and potentially reducing the appearance of fine lines, making it an excellent choice for mature skin.
Fig (Ficin) and pear peels
Just like bromelain, ficin, an enzyme found in figs, has anti-inflammatory properties. Thanks to its moisturizing and nourishing properties, ficin peels are particularly gentle and suitable for sensitive and reactive skin (although their exfoliation may be insufficient for oily, acne-prone skin). In enzymatic peels, fig is often combined with pear, for its moisturizing, antioxidant, and gentle exfoliating properties. In our formula, we combine these two ingredients with exfoliating jojoba beads to reveal smooth, rejuvenated, and glowing skin.
Papaya peels (papain)
Papaya contains papain, one of the most powerful enzymes used in enzymatic peels. Papain effectively exfoliates dead cells and can help unclog pores, reducing breakouts and evening out skin texture and tone. Its anti-inflammatory properties are not as powerful as some of the other products on this list, but thanks to its high vitamin C content, it can be an excellent skin brightener. Being one of the most powerful, it is ideal for oily and acne-prone skin that can tolerate a stronger peel, but may not be suitable for sensitive and reactive skin.
Cherry peels
Although cherry is not commonly used alone as an enzymatic peel, it is often found in combination with one of the enzymes mentioned above to improve its effectiveness. Cherry can offer additional exfoliation, but as a topical treatment, it is mainly appreciated for its brightening properties and its richness in antioxidants and vitamins that nourish and protect the skin.
Green tea peels
While less common than other types of peels on this list, some formulas may contain enzymes derived from fermented green tea probiotics, which offer gentle exfoliation and can help smooth and brighten the complexion. As a topical ingredient for skin care, green tea also has many other benefits: it is rich in antioxidant polyphenols, which can help reduce oxidative stress and prevent premature aging, and has anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe visible redness and irritation. In addition, it can help control sebum production, making it ideal for oily and acne-prone skin.
Anti-aging peels
Anti-aging enzymatic peels can be combined with any combination of the enzymatic ingredients mentioned above. All enzymatic peels are exfoliating, meaning they can all help reduce the signs of aging, such as fine lines and dark spots. However, these types of enzymatic peels generally combine their exfoliating enzymes with other active ingredients to enhance their anti-aging effects: resurfacing AHAs and BHAs, anti-oxidative stress antioxidants, moisturizers like hyaluronic acid and aloe vera, collagen-stimulating peptides, and anti-aging botanical extracts like calendula, chamomile, etc.
Anti-acne peels
Similar to anti-aging peels, acne-specific enzymatic peels combine the exfoliating enzymes mentioned above with proven anti-acne ingredients to enhance their clarifying properties. Popular anti-acne ingredients include salicylic acid, lactic acid, niacinamide, antiseptic plants, and many others.
How to choose the right enzymatic peel for your skin type?
Your skin type is an important factor to consider when choosing your peel. A formula adapted to your needs will ensure optimal results and prevent excessive exfoliation or irritation.
Oily and acne-prone skin will benefit from more powerful peels, such as those with papaya papain, while sensitive skin will prefer gentler peels, such as those with fig ficin.
Dry skin can also benefit from fig peels and should prioritize formulas containing moisturizing ingredients to help replenish the skin's moisture barrier.
Normal and combination skin will prefer balanced peels, gentle but effective; a formula that is too gentle may not produce the desired results. Bromelain peels are an excellent choice, especially for reducing fine lines.
Regardless of your skin type, it is important to monitor your skin's tolerance to the peel, especially after the first applications. If you notice unusual redness, irritation, or flaking, especially if it persists for more than a few hours, opt for a gentler formula.
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