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Many types of hair color exist on the market. Whether you have straight hair, curly hair, coily hair... You will always find a hair color adapted to your hair type. To successfully color your hair, you first need to understand the types of coloring available and the professional color coding.
Understanding hair color numbering
Each tube of hair dye contains a code that remains the same regardless of its type (semi-permanent, permanent, temporary, etc.). It is presented in the format: Y, ZZ:
Y is the first digit determining the tone level or base. It is determined using the tone scale.
Z, the first reflection after the comma, is the "dominant reflection," which is the most pronounced in the color.
Z, is the second reflection, it is called "secondary reflection" and is the least visible. It helps to neutralize unwanted reflections.
The Tone Scale: Y
The tone scale is universal and allows you to determine 3 important things:
- The tone level of your natural or colored hair
- The tone level of a hair color
- And the tone level of the color you desire
All this information will help you choose the right hair color. This scale corresponds to the first digit before the comma.
The Reflections: Z, Z
We saw earlier that the numbers after the comma correspond to reflections. The first after the comma indicates the primary reflection, the second the secondary reflection.
Reflections are also determined by a precise numbering:
It is also possible to see zeros in hair color numbering. They have several meanings:
- Two zeros after the comma will indicate a natural tone
- A zero just after the comma will lighten the present reflection
- A zero in the second position after the comma, on the other hand, will intensify the primary reflection
Once you understand the numbering system, you can choose the type of hair color you need.
However, please note that reflection numbering is not universal, as is the case with Schwarzkopf, for example.
The different types of hair coloring
Hair coloring: Temporary hair colors
Very quick and easy to apply, these are foams, shampoos or treatments, which deposit an instant color film on the outer part of the hair. Generally, this color does not last more than two or three shampoos. These products cannot lighten hair or conceal gray hair.
Recommended brand:
Semi-permanent colors
They coat the hair with colored pigments that withstand several shampoos. Ideal for blending away first gray hairs or roots. These colors penetrate deeper into the hair cuticle, so their action is longer-lasting, and they are suitable for anyone who wants to try a color change without it being permanent.
Recommended brand:
Because images speak louder than words, here's a video showing the steps to achieve a semi-permanent hair color
Hair coloring: Tone-on-tone colors
Tone-on-tone coloring is ideal for enhancing a natural color or covering a larger amount of gray hair. It does not lighten, but it lasts at least a month and fades without root effect. It is a gentle coloring (ammonia-free, but with oxidant), it gives a shimmering nuance and shine to the hair. Want to know more about tone-on-tone coloring? Find our article "How to achieve a tone-on-tone hair color?"
Recommended brands:
- Beautélive
- Edaïa
- KIN Cosmetics
Permanent hair colors
A permanent method until regrowth, it is the only one capable of effectively covering gray hair, darkening hair or lightening by two shades.
This is a delicate hair color that is best left to professionals. It also requires the most complementary care. Despite the vitamins and moisturizing active ingredients contained in current products, these hair colors weaken the hair and alter its texture. Deep treatments are essential. Roots require touch-ups every 6 weeks.
Recommended brands:
- Beautélive
- Edaïa
- Subtil
Highlighting
This is a very popular technique that involves lightening very fine strands, with one or even two shades lighter than the base color. Highlighting gives a subtle result, and also brightens the hair and face. This coloring technique provides a diffused result without touching the roots, as the color blends into the hair mass.
Highlighting is ideal for curly or frizzy hair, as it adds depth. Fine hair, on the other hand, will benefit from a voluminous effect.
If you want to add light and recreate the "return from vacation" effect, opt for blonde highlights, also called "Californian" (achieved with bleaching and a toner if necessary), it brings light and dimension to your hair. If you want to warm it up, choose caramel or honey highlights.
Recommended brand:
Recall of the color wheel for toners:
As you can see on the color wheel: a yellow reflection will be canceled by a violet reflection - an orange reflection (hence coppery) will be canceled by an ash reflection - a green reflection will be canceled by a red reflection.
If a reflection is rather yellow-orange, do not hesitate to make a mixture of iridescent ash.
Be careful, one color does not lighten another color! Never do anything on Henna.
Hair coloring: Bleaching
This is the most corrosive process. It's best to leave it to professionals. A powerful alkaline solution lifts the hair cuticle and acts directly on the natural hair pigments. The hair goes through different colors during bleaching: from black to black-brown, reddish-brown, golden-brown, golden blonde, and light blonde. Rinsing stops the process at the desired shade. Again, treating and restructuring care is essential to then improve the beauty and health of your hair.
If, despite everything, you have doubts about the result of your bleaching, we advise you to cut a small lock of hair, very close to the roots, wrap it with adhesive tape and apply the bleach. Let the product act, rinse and dry. Do you like the color? Go for it!
Recommended brand:
Our professional tips:
- As with coloring, you must perform an allergy test if it's your client's first time bleaching. Prepare a very small amount of powder with oxidant on a cotton swab, which you will rub into the crook of the arm. If nothing happens after 48 hours, you can bleach your client's hair.
- First and foremost, the mistake not to make is stirring the powder and oxidant mixture. Bleach is not mixed but "kneaded". Do not use a metal bowl.
- It is also essential to do a strand test on your client to see how the hair will react. This strand should be done in the back of the head within the mass so that it is not too visible if the bleaching work is not successful.
- One of the biggest mistakes during bleaching is not letting the product act long enough. Indeed, if the processing time is too short, the result will immediately be yellow/orange.
- During bleaching, whether for highlights or a full head, you need to know how to use the right oxidant. The higher the oxidant, the faster the reaction, but the more orange the result will be. So, perform a good hair diagnosis and use the correct oxidant.
The necessary equipment for successful hair coloring
- hairbrush
- tail comb
- large flat brush
- 1 pair of gloves
- Some rich cream to protect your forehead and ears from the hair dye.
- Towel reserved for this purpose (which may have dye stains)
- An old t-shirt (which may have dye stains)
How to apply my hair color?
Prepare the scalp
First, a few days before coloring your hair, you should apply a nourishing treatment. It is also advisable not to wash your hair in the 24 hours prior to coloring, so that the pigments adhere as well as possible.
Protect yourself
To avoid getting hair dye stains on your face, apply a rich cream to the base of your hair at the forehead, on the ears, and on the nape of your neck.
If you do get some on your skin, do not rub it. Instead, dab it with a cotton pad soaked in makeup remover milk. If the color is still present, exfoliate the desired area.
Let's move on to the application
Before anything else, perform an allergy test by applying a small dab to the crook of your arm. The next day, check this area. If it shows no reaction (swelling, redness, etc.), you can then apply it to your hair.
To color your hair, start by reading the product's instructions, as the technique and processing time may differ from one hair color to another.
Generally, hair dye is applied to dry hair. Separate hair strands with a middle part, then apply the product to the roots. To allow the active ingredients to penetrate, massage. Repeat the operation on the lengths.
Regarding the processing time, it must be strictly followed! It is out of the question to leave it on longer because the cleaning session lasted longer than expected. If you want to keep busy while the color processes, check the processing time indicated on the box and start a timer. Extending the processing time will overload the color, and conversely, if the processing time is too short, the pigment will not have time to set on the hair.
Once the processing time has elapsed, rinse the color with water, then shampoo after coloring to regulate your hair's pH. Finally, perform a final rinse with cold water to set the color.
How to maintain my colored hair?
Coloring tends to dry out hair, which is why it's recommended to maintain it with specific care products for colored hair.
Use a shampoo for colored hair. It will effectively and gently cleanse your hair, but it will also prevent your color from fading.
Once or twice a week, apply a nourishing mask to your hair. Opt for a rich and generous texture to nourish the hair fiber and preserve the shine of your color.
To maintain a vibrant and even color, it is recommended to re-color your hair every two months.
To give yourself the best chance before sun exposure or swimming in the pool/sea, apply a protective treatment. The same applies when using heating appliances (straighteners, hairdryers...). Avoid their use as much as possible, or protect your hair with a heat protective spray.
How to fix a hair color mishap?
You simply wanted a little refresh, and now you have orange or two-tone hair. Making a mistake with hair coloring happens. It can be due to incorrect dosage, not respecting the processing time, and many other factors! Whatever the case, don't panic, there are a few tips to fix this mistake.
The color turns orange
You wanted to lighten your brown hair to blonde, but it unfortunately turned reddish/orange. To fix this, you will need to darken your hair to hide the reflections.
However, it is strongly advised against repeating a hair color on freshly colored hair. You will need to wait 2 weeks before doing a darker color so as not to further weaken the hair fiber.
The color is too light
If the applied color is too light and the shade is not too far from your desired color, re-color two weeks later. Use 1 or 2 shades darker than the one you initially chose.
The other solution is to go to the hairdresser to have them apply a toner to harmonize the overall color.
The color is too dark
Have you made your hair too dark and don't like the result? In this case, you'll need to fade your color. To do this, wash your hair as much as possible with an anti-dandruff shampoo for "colored hair".
Don't forget the moisturizing mask once a week to prevent the pigment from soaking into the hair fiber.
My blonde has greenish undertones
Blonde hair requires a lot of maintenance and can often turn green, especially after swimming in a pool. For those in this situation, here's a little homemade recipe: mix lemon juice, two effervescent aspirins, then add lukewarm water. Distribute the mixture throughout your hair, leave it on for 10 to 15 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
Then apply a hair oil to the lengths and ends.
The best solution is to use a neutralizing shampoo with each wash. This shampoo will help keep the blonde intact and reduce greenish reflections. Also, use a yellow-reducing mask 1 to 2 times a week; this will help care for your blonde hair by restoring its vitality and shine.
Our professional tips
- Always protect your hands with gloves.
- Perform a patch test 48 hours before applying the hair color.
- Do not exceed the processing time indicated on the product.
- Do not use metal utensils during application.
- Discard any unused mixture.
- Rinse thoroughly and emulsify the hair color once the processing time has passed. Then, use an acidic pH shampoo.
- Use a Post-Color shampoo : It is indeed very important to use a post-color shampoo after rinsing a hair dye. Residues of the hair dye will be cleaned, and furthermore, the pH of the hair and scalp will be regulated.
- Thoroughly mix the preparation: Mixing is essential. For the molecules to be well blended, ideally, the mixture should be stirred for 1 minute.
- Respect the dosage : Always follow the dosage prescribed by the brand. This dosage may vary from one brand to another. But generally, you will find:
1:1 = which means dose for dose. For example, 30ml (or gr) of coloring cream + 30ml (or gr) of oxidant
1:1.5 = which means one dose of coloring cream with one and a half doses of oxidant. For example, 30 ml (or gr) of coloring cream + 45ml (or gr) of oxidant.
Ideally, weigh the products, to the nearest gram.
You now have all the keys to choose and achieve the hair color that suits you best! It's your turn to play!
